What’s your background as a chef?
I spent 18 years working with Michel Roux at the Waterside Inn, at Bray. I started in the kitchens in a junior role and became head chef after five years. Before coming to Devon, I was executive head chef at Cliveden House hotel in Taplow, Berkshire. That was an office-based job and I learned a lot about business - budgeting and planning - but there wasn’t a huge amount of cooking.

What brought you to north Devon?
I wanted to see what it would be like to run my own business – to do it on my own without guidance. Sarah and I were looking for a freehold property and you get more value away from the home counties. We’ve always liked the South West - we’ve holidayed in Cornwall - and The Masons Arms came onto the market. The food we’re offering fits the place. We live above the pub, which is one of the pluses in this business because I see more of the family, and we have three children who are aged 12, 10 and 6. Sarah does the service, looks after the bar, the laundry – and all those important things that often go unnoticed.

What are your earliest foodie memories?
I’ve always enjoyed food. My early memories are of my mum’s homemade pies, chutneys and pickles. She’s always been good at using what’s in the fridge. You need discipline in a kitchen; it’s all very well being flamboyant and throwing food away but if you’re running your own business, you’ve got to make a profit.

What is your favourite meal?
I love my mum’s steak and kidney pudding, and it’s often on the menu when I go home.

My family is from Colchester, which is where I had my first job straight from school, working in the galleys on the Sealink ferries. I thought: if I want to do this properly I’d better learn to be a chef, so I went to college in Colchester.

Who in the food world has most inspired you?
Michel Roux. He is a great, inspirational chef and gourmet. When I was at the Waterside Inn, it was a small team and Michel was very hands on. He’s had a big effect on my career. For him, food is always the priority. And he understands the job; he knows what a chef needs to perform in the kitchen. If a chef is not happy, that chef is going to move on if things don’t happen. They hit a brick wall and they’ve got to go round it – that means they’ll go somewhere else.

Why do you think The Masons Arms was voted Michelin Pub of the Year?
I think it’s the whole concept here. We’ve retained the character of the pub; the feel of the bar. We’ve respected it as a pub and at the same time are offering first-class dining. It’s two experiences in one building. You can meet for a couple of pints and then enjoy a beautiful dinner with champagne. You don’t need to get in your car and drive another 10 minutes down the road to a restaurant.

How do you keep the pub atmosphere?
A pub is a social place. It’s about meeting people and it should be a warm experience. We welcome everyone and our clientele is diverse. We’re open to the farming community, local trades people and tourists. Walkers in their hiking boots stop off here, as do businessmen, who may then have lunch. The holidaymakers want to discover a bit of old Devon and they get that here. They love chatting with the locals; they don’t want a faceless pub.

What’s your most popular dish?
There’s been a pork dish on the menu from day one. Roulade of pork belly is a hearty, wholesome and tasty dish. It’s nicely presented, too. One of our starters, parmesan risotto with flaked smoked haddock and poached egg on top, is also a big seller.

You don’t have to have a three-course meal. The way we eat is changing and light lunches are popular - you may want only one course.

Do you sell local beers and source your
ingredients locally?
We have Cotleigh’s Tawny bitter from Wiveliscombe. In fact, this pub was the first customer back in 1979 and we have a framed ‘first delivery’ certificate.

Our fish comes from the market at Brixham and Edd’s is our greengrocer. We buy our game from a butcher in Chulmleigh and in Taunton. All our cheeses are from Devon or Somerset. Some chefs see ‘local’ as a buzzword but I don’t get too hung up on sourcing locally. If there’s a great local product then I think: let’s use it.

This feature first appeared in Devon's November-December issue of food magazine.

The Mason's Arms
Knowstone, Devon, EX36 4RY.

Tel. 01398 341231.
http://www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk