www.vanillapod-cridfordinn.com

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May 16, 2013

 
It’s Sunday morning and there’s something going on. Church goers are foregoing the traditional post service coffee and are rushing out of the chapel, change jangling on their pockets. There’s a crowd gathering around one of the island’s honesty stalls.

As I push my way to the front I can see what the fuss is all about. The first crop of new potatoes have arrived. Large plastic containers holding dozens of the dusty yellow marbles with a bright sprig of mint on top. There’s a tussle as I manage to grab a precious box. This scene happens across the islands all year around on Scilly as the honesty stalls provide islanders and visitors with a constant stream of culinary gems. At the moment it’s the baby potatoes, bright pink rhubarb and fat spears of asparagus as thick as my thumbs. Next month it will be juicy strawberries, broad beans and milky lettuces.

The islands are famous for these stalls. You can’t rival the eggs, fruit and vegetables laid and picked the morning they appear on the stalls. Hotels and guesthouses serve up bright yellow omelettes from eggs laid from chickens in fields down the road, island chefs design their menus as they rifle through the baskets and bags on the farmside stalls and on the campsites the children enjoy barbecues and salads from vegetables they were sent to collect straight from the farmers. In the autumn you might be lucky and grab a jar of jam or chutney or a bunch of grapes grown in the old flower sheds and sold by the side of the road.

For many they might be an entertaining tourist stop off to grab the occasional bag of tomatoes but on Scilly they are an important part of the weekly shop and provide a valuable income for the dozens of small holders on the islands. Even in January we’re eating roast dinners with potatoes, carrots and spinach grown in fields just a few metres away. The gluts of vegetables are frozen in sheds and sold to hungry islanders desperate for a taste of summer on a stormy winter’s day.

Tourism might be the business that most people associate with the islands but farming is still a key industry. Although the number of flower farms has decreased there is still a thriving food farming industry flourishing and they are growing produce that could rival anywhere. So if you are on the islands this year make sure you seek out the stalls on the islands. Just watch out for the island shoppers and their sharp elbows.

For the latest food news from the islands, follow Issy on Twitter @scillyfood, or like the Scilly Food Facebook page.

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May 15, 2013

 
With its waterfront setting and rich historical background, Plymouth already has plenty to offer visitors. Food fans are in for a special treat, with a host of new restaurants and cafes opening in some of the most stylish and quirky venues you’ll find in the South West. Here’s our guide on where to eat and stay in Plymouth.

Where to eat

1. Tanners Restaurant

The city’s big name chefs are brothers James and Chris Tanner. Known for their TV appearances, including Ready Steady Cook and Saturday Kitchen, they’ve owned and run Tanners Restaurant (pictured above) for 14 years, creating the city’s most enduring and well loved fine dining establishment. Devon’s larder plays a big part in its modern menus, which feature ruby red beef, seasonal vegetables and dayboat fish. The restaurant is housed in the historic Prysten House with a private dining room and an open air medieval courtyard.

2. Barbican Kitchen

Another Tanner brothers’ treat is housed in the 15th century Plymouth Gin distillery. Vibrant and funky, the Barbican Kitchen delivers fresh, seasonal food at reasonable prices. Its contemporary feel, created by award winning designer Shaun Clarkson, cleverly combines with the elegance of the old building. While you’re there, take a tour of the distillery and enjoy a cocktail in Plymouth Gin’s stunning Refectory Bar.

3. Rock Salt Cafe

There’s a hidden treasure in the centre of the city. Rock Salt Cafe and Brasserie has been quietly building up a big following. Runner up in Best Cafe category in the food Reader Awards 2013, Chef Dave Jenkins creates good honest food throughout the day with everything – from coffee and cake to light lunches and meals made using locally sourced ingredients.

4. The Mission Bar and Restaurant

Watch the world go by in the tree shaded outside seating area at The Mission Bar and Restaurant. Close to the city’s law courts in the Barbican area of the city, this comfortable and relaxed venue has something for everyone – enjoy a coffee outside or pop in for a cocktail at the bar, or a meal surrounded by stained glass windows and gothic furniture.

Celeb chef spotting

Famous chefs just can’t get enough of Plymouth. Following in the footsteps of the Tanner brothers and Hugh Fearnley- Whittingstall, Gary Rhodes has arrived in the city, with a major transformation of an iconic waterfront building. Rhodes@The Dome has turned a former derelict visitor attraction into a modern dining experience, with fabulous views over Plymouth Sound. Then there’s joint winner of MasterChef: The Professionals 2012, Anton Piotrowski, who runs his cosy dining pub, The Treby Arms at Sparkwell, just on the outskirts of Plymouth. Mitch Tonks has just announced he will be opening a RockFish restaurant at the National Marine Aquarium, using sustainably sourced seafood, much of it coming straight from city based fishermen.

Food at the flicks

Banish those bags of popcorn, there’s an altogether more stylish offering for cinemagoers at the Plymouth Arts Centre. The centre’s award winning cafe, PAC Food, is run by Sammy Lounds (pictured), a Jamie Oliver protégé from Fifteen Cornwall. It’s local food at affordable prices, and new for early summer is a tempting range of lighter options and salads. Try a Cinema Supper from £15, which includes a cinema ticket.

Foodie goings-on in The Yard

Out and about early in the morning? Then follow the smell of freshly baked bread and coffee coming from the Royal William Bakery. Why not pop in for a plate of hot toast with lashings of homemade jam? Late risers may prefer to indulge in an afternoon tea, with tempting plates of cakes and piping hot scones, straight out of the oven. This is a restaurant with a strong ethos – serving fresh, simple food that perfectly fits the time of day. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall opened his River Cottage Canteen and Deli (pictured above) in the listed three storey Brewhouse building in 2011. French restaurant chain Le Bistro Pierre moved into the yard’s New Cooperage Building, which boasts a large outside terrace. Along with its authentic Provençal style dishes, it has a special, locally sourced seafood menu and a stylish bar serving a range of cocktails and real ales. Wine sampling in a relaxed atmosphere is the order of the day at Le Vignoble, the independent boutique wine lounge. Its Enomatic wine serving machine allows for sampling of a variety of wines from around the world in a cosy, friendly atmosphere. If you happen to be visiting Plymouth on the first Sunday of the month, make sure you call in to the good food market on the Green at Royal William Yard. Thirty stallholders including River Cottage will be there from 10am until 3pm, but make sure you arrive early, as many sell out quickly.

Where to stay

Although there’s not a great range of foodie hotels in the City Centre, we’ve found some good options for gastronauts who need a place to stay. There’s a cluster of stylishly renovated, maritime buildings just inside the buzzing foodie hub at Royal William Yard. The Drake’s Wharf self catering apartments are well equipped and beautifully designed, and you’re right in the heart of the waterfront action. For affordable luxury in the centre of the city, head to the recently refurbished New Continental Hotel. But if you want to keep accommodation costs down – reserving your cash for eating out – then there’s always the city’s Premier Inn at Sutton Harbour or the Jurys Inn. Just on the outskirts of Plymouth you’ll find the stylish Moorland Garden Hotel (pictured), set in stunning Dartmoor countryside. Its Wildflower Restaurant is a fantastic place to eat too.  Also just outside the city is Langdon Court, a grade 2 listed boutique hotel and restaurant at Down Thomas.

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May 15, 2013

English Wine Week runs this month from May 25-June 2 and is the perfect opportunity for oenophiles to visit an English vineyard and discover homegrown vintages of delight. Here are some of the best in the South West

Knightor Winery

This Cornish winery is the newcomer on the block, having been open just two years. However with 17,000 vines on the land and positioned just a mile from the Eden project it’s a serious player. This summer will see the uncorking of Knightor’s first sparkling wine. Take a tour of the vines, then dine in the garden courtyard or in the converted granite barns for the full experience.

Wine week activities

Visitors can enjoy samples from what the vineyard promises will be the widest selection of regional wines from the South West, and guests may also get a preview tasting of the new sparkling wine. Check out the list of special Wine Week tours on the website.

Camel Valley

This year’s wine week will see the launch of Camel Valley Vineyard’s Cuvée Raymond Blanc. The much anticipated wine from the Lindo family vineyard is the result of a picking by the celebrity chef back in October 2011 when he visited the Cornish vineyard to film a TV progamme. As well as cooking with Annie Lindo in the family kitchen, using local ingredients, Raymond picked ‘a fair number of grapes’ for his own wine, says Annie’s husband, winemaker Bob Lindo. Almost two years down the line and the resulting cuvée is ready. Try the wine for yourself during wine week.

Wine week activities

Guided tours take place weekdays at 2.30pm, with a glass of wine at the end. But on Wednesdays at 5pm there’s a grand tour and tasting by either one of the family or their winemakers for £12, including wine.

Sharpham Vineyard

The much respected Sharpham Vineyard in South Devon offers a range of tours, including a simple self-guided Trek and Taste and the four hour Sharpham Experience, which involves a tour of the vineyard, winery and house, providing the history and principles behind English viticulture as well as lunch.

Wine week activities

The vineyard will host an exhibition of artwork, either in the winery building or in the grounds. The Sharpham Estate is a beautiful place to explore, or stop for something to eat at the award winning Vineyard Cafe.

Yearlstone Vineyard

Take a self guided tour of Devon’s oldest vineyard near Tiverton, or try The English Wine Experience. Visitors get a tour of the vineyard and a talk on wine making with coffee and lunch and get to meet leading winemaker Juliet White (pictured). They’ll also take a bottle of Yearlstone home with them.

Wine week activities

Yearlstone organises Devon Wine Week from June 2-10. Special events include Music and Mezes, a tutored wine tasting and supper with live classical guitar music.

Three Choirs Vineyard

There’s definitely a continental feel at the Three Choirs Vineyard at Newent in Gloucestershire. Sitting on the restaurant terrace overlooking the vineyard, a glass of its sparkling wine in hand, you could easily be in the depths of the Tuscan landscape. Three Choirs not only has its own restaurant, shop and 75 acres of vines, it also has 11 lovely rooms – also overlooking the vineyard – where wine fans can enjoy a gourmet getaway. Combine with the guided tour and tasting for the full experience.

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May 15, 2013

 
Elderflower blooms are commonly found in hedgerows, so keep your eyes open for the wonderful flush of flowers that normally start at the end of May or the beginning of June, as it lasts for just a few weeks. The cordial is a fragrant elixir which kids and grown-ups alike will enjoy with still or sparkling water. It also marries well with strawberries and gooseberries and makes a delicious flavouring for ice cream.

I’ve tried many recipes over the years and favour the one below, however feel free to experiment with varying amounts and flavours of citrus fruit: This will make approximately three litres of cordial and is a “no cook” recipe:

Elderflower cordial recipe

1. Pick 30 elderflower heads. These need to have open flowers ideally with no brown on them. Remove any leaves and gently wash.

2. Pour 900g of castor sugar into a very large bowl, and add a small packet of citric acid (about 25g in weight). You can source this from your local chemist or homebrew shop.

3. Add 3 unwaxed oranges and 3 unwaxed lemons cut into slices to the bowl, then cover with 3.2 litres of boiling water.

4. Stir carefully until all the sugar and citric acid has dissolved, then add the flowers. This now will sit overnight with the occasional stir.

5. The following day, strain the liquid and pour into sterilised bottles. If you are being fastidious use muslin to strain all of the bits out. We’re happy with the quick approach of using a sieve which produces a more cloudy finish.

6. Keep in the fridge and use over the next week or two. Dilute to taste with water – sparkling or still.

Happy imbibing! HH

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Serves 4

Method

1. Make sure your barbecue is already on and hot, as the preparation of the squid and salad won’t take long.

2. Chop thyme, parsley and garlic together to create a marinade. Zest a lemon and extract the juice. Add to the herbs, together with olive oil and salt. Mix together thoroughly.

3. Criss cross a few slashes on the squid tubes and rub the marinade in. Set aside so the squid has time to absorb the flavours and the lemon juice to soften the meat.

4. Now make the salad. Slice the fennel very thin. Slice the spring onions and add to the fennel. Add the salt, oil and lemon juice. Toss together, taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

5. Place the squid on the barbecue and cook, turning once for 1-2 minutes, depending on thickness. Serve immediately.

www.outlaws.co.uk

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Serves 4

Method

1. Cover the belly with the chicken stock and braise in an oven at 150°c/gas 2 for 3 hours. Boil the potatoes until soft and cool down. After the pork has been braised let it cool and discard the liquid.

2. Cut pork into portions, season and roast in the oven for around 30 minutes at 190°c/gas 5.

3. Meanwhile, shell the peas into a bowl and mix with the olive oil and diced tomato. Slice and sauté the potatoes. At the last minute poach your eggs and blanch the asparagus.

4. To serve: place the pork in the centre and top with the poached egg. Place the potatoes and the asparagus around the plate and dress with the raw pea dressing.

The Old Quay House, 28 Fore Street, Fowey, Cornwall, PL23 1AQ.
Tel. 01726 833302.
www.theoldquayhouse.com

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Makes 16

Method

1. Preheat your oven to 150°c/gas 2. Line a large baking tray with non-stick baking parchment or a silicone mat.

2. Sift the flour, salt, sugar and baking powder into a bowl. Cut the butter into small cubes and add to the flour. Rub the mixture together with your hands.

3. Lightly beat the eggs, adding in the cold milk. Pour all of the egg mixture into the flour, mixing quickly and lightly together. The trick is not to over-mix; the quicker and lighter you are, the better the scones will be.

4. Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and roll out to a thickness of 2.5cm. With an 8cm cutter cut out 16 rounds, placing them about 5cm apart on your prepared baking tray.

5. Lightly beat the egg yolk with the milk for the glaze. Brush over the top of scones then finish with a sprinkling of castor sugar. Bake in the centre of the oven for around 20-25 minutes or until risen and slightly browned.

6. Cool on a wire rack, then split and fill with jam and cream.

Pick up Tom’s bread at his Truro, Wadebridge and Falmouth shops and bakery cafe in Pool. See the website for details.

www.bakertom.co.uk

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‘Once cooled, frost with cream cheese mixed with a little icing sugar to taste,’ says Matt.

Serves 6

Method

1. Simply add the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl, make a well in the middle and add the honey, vanilla, veg oil, egg and yoghurt.

2. Mix to a loose batter and fold in the raspberries and scrunched up bran flakes.

3. Spoon into a muffin tray, sprinkle each with the demerara sugar and bake at 180°c/gas 4 for 12-15 minutes. Once cooled, frost with cream cheese mixed with a little icing sugar taste.

www.sharphampark.com
Find more spelt recipes at: www.greatbritishspeltrecipes.com

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Serves 6

Method

1. Put the milk, vanilla pods, vanilla seeds and half of the double cream into a small pan and slowly simmer for 10 minutes or until reduced by a third.

2. Remove from the heat and stir in the soaked gelatine leaves until dissolved. Allow to cool a little, then place in the fridge, stirring occasionally until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Remove the vanilla pods.

3. Whip together the icing sugar with the remaining cream. Mix the 2 cream mixtures together and divide into 6 serving moulds. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours.

4. To serve: dip the mould into some hot water to loosen the pannacotta a little, then turn it out on to a plate next to some raspberries and shortbread. Sprinkle with icing sugar and garnish with a sprig of mint.

www.theharbourportisaac.com

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