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Food file: Paul Parnell and Matthew Mason
Head Chef Matthew Mason and “Proprietor/Washer-upper” Paul Parnell are a formidable team at Rockbeare’s The Jack in the Green. Interview by Lara Watson.
So where did it all start? Matthew: As a young man I was lucky enough to start my training at Gidleigh Park under Chef Shaun Hill. Being around like-minded people like that who had such a passion for quality food was amazing. Duncan Walker (of 22 Mill Street, Chagford) was Sous Chef there at the time too. I started in pastry, then went up to veg and in the last 18 months, got to work alongside Shaun on hot starters. That job had a lasting effect on me, and when I joined The Jack in the Green I quickly became head chef. Paul: I’ve been a hotelier and manager of pubs and restaurants here and abroad for years - before the term “gastro-pub” was invented. My aim is to take the standards of top class restaurants into a pub environment and make people feel comfortable. I’ve seen people look at the menu at some places as if they’re afraid to go in - that’s not what we’re about. What are you about? Paul: That four letter word ‘care’ is very important to me. For our customers, the food, everything. Everyone in the kitchen is so passionate that it rubs off on everyone else. Matthew: There are seven chefs as well as me in the kitchen full time and all of them have the potential to be the best in the region. Craig Sampson’s been our Sous Chef for five years and he’s just excellent. Our Pastry Chef, Scott Patton, is only 19 and he’s amazing too. We’re turning out 1,200 meals a week but it’s simple food, done better. Everything’s sourced locally and we don’t want to buy things in so we bake our own bread - it means longer hours but it’s all part of our service. What are your favourite food memories? Matthew: Picking strawberries with my Mum in the garden and mackerel fishing, that kind of thing. Paul: Family meals I think. Sitting and just talking to each other - the way it should be. Any food phobias? Paul: Produce that isn’t used properly. Also, having too much food on the plate. We try to keep it simple here. Matthew: Nothing at all! I love to try new things. Every holiday I go on has a foodie element to it where I can try the region’s speciality. I went to Spain recently and visited Serrano for the ham which was great. What will you be serving this season? Matthew: Our menus totally change every six-eight weeks, and in September-October it’ll be a mixture of wild duck, chestnut gnocchi, pheasant, partridge and venison from Gemma Sargent at Fishleigh Estate, scallops... just in line with what’s in season. I’ll use the skills of the suppliers to let me know what’s best that day. Where do you go out for food in Devon? Paul: I like Combe House in Gittisham. I’ve got young kids so I spend more time cooking at home. Gidleigh Park is great. Matthew: I like The Masons Arms in Knowstone. I’m looking forward to going to Gidleigh again when it re-opens too. Last meal on Earth? Paul: A traditional beef roast and all the trimmings with a pint of ale before and a nice simple Rioja with the meal. Matthew: It would have to be scallops for me, cooked by Craig... on a desert island with rave music in the background to recapture my youth! What’s on the cards for The Jack? Paul: Just to keep moving it forward and maintaining the high standards. We’re going to start work on a 40-people seating area soon and we want to put some bedrooms in eventually. The day we stop enjoying it will be the day we stop. I’ve been here 15 years and Matthew has been here 12 and we’re still totally dedicated. We’ve grown from a roadside watering hole to a 2 AA Rosette, Michelin Bib Gourmand pub and we still deliver. That’s the beauty of The Jack, it’s whatever you want it to be, from a wedding venue to a meeting place for a light snack.
The Jack in the Green Inn
Rockbeare, near Exeter. Tel. 01404 822240.
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