Of everything on the Christmas menu there's one thing that makes an appearance for one meal only and it's the (blazing) star of the show - the Christmas pudding, so you've got to get it right. There are traditions to follow and a history to know - and some great places to buy one if you don't have the time to make one.

A beefy beginning
Beef and mutton were main ingredients in frumenty, the 14th century porridge containing dried fruit, wine and spices that evolved into the pudding we eat today. This forerunner was eaten as a fasting meal in preparation for the Christmas festivities, but by 1595 the Elizabethans had come to their culinary senses. They ditched the meat, thickened the pudding with eggs and breadcrumbs, added beer or spirits, and renamed it plum pudding. By 1650 it had become the customary Christmas dessert, but soon after the Puritans banned it for being indulgent and pagan in origin. King George I re-established it as part of the Christmas meal, having tasted and enjoyed it. By Victorian times Christmas puddings had become pretty similar to the dark, rich mix of dried fruit, nuts, alcohol, eggs, suet or butter, flour and sometimes breadcrumbs that's eaten today, with Eliza Acton publishing a recipe in 1845, followed by Mrs Beeton.

Custom-made
With such a long history it’s no surprise that so many traditions surround the Christmas pudding, with most being Christian in origin. One superstition says that the pudding should be made with 13 ingredients to represent Jesus and the disciples, whilst another suggests that every member of the family should take turns to stir the pudding with a wooden spoon from east to west, in honour of the wise men. The holly on top represents the crown of thorns and the whole brandy-soaked dish is set alight as a symbol of Jesus’ passion. The Sunday before Advent is known as ‘stir-up Sunday’ because of words from the Book of Common Prayer, and it’s traditionally the day to make your Christmas pudding. At this time you’re also meant to put a few silver coins into the mix to bring wealth in the coming year. It’s no wonder the Victorians had bad teeth.

Pud vibrations?
With all the cooking and preparations to do it’s tempting to use the microwave to heat your pud rather than steam it. However, Christmas pudding is quite dense and steaming allows it to slow cook, ensuring a moist result. It’s easy to overcook the pud in the microwave and end up with a chewy black lump.

Seasonal sauces
There are many ways to dress a Christmas pud, and all of them are fantastically sinful. Brandy butter definitely provides the booze-factor, custard provides a (slightly) less rich foil, and for a nice contrast try a good local ice cream that’ll melt into a creamy pool – Langage Farm’s would do the job nicely. But if you’re a true Devonian then it has to be cream, and preferably clotted. And don’t forget to go for the ooohs and ahhhs by dousing your pud with Yarde’s Real Cider Brandy and setting it alight.

Langage Farm, Smithaleigh. Tel. 01752 337723. langagefarm.com
RealDrink, Stoke Gabriel. Tel. 01803 782217. realdrink.org

Didn’t stir on Stir-up Sunday?
It’s not the end of the world, as there are some very good locally made puddings available.

The Bickford Arms makes its own puds, stuffed with fruit and using a 70-year-old family recipe with stout, brandy and mead. £12 plus postage for 2lb/900g. Buy by email or phone, along with truffles, thyme-infused duck fat and other Christmas goodies.
The Bickford Arms, near Holsworthy.
Tel. 01409 221318. info@bickfordarms.com

The recipe for The Carved Angel’s award-winning pud (pictured left) is based on Eliza Acton’s, with breadcrumbs to make it light and moist. Buy online or mail order. £10 for 340g, £16 for 680g, £25 for 1.6kg.
The Carved Angel, Tavistock.
Tel. 01822 835020. thecarvedangel.com

The Christmas pud from Feeding Your Imagination (pictured top left)is fruity and enriched with brandy and stout. Buy from The Galley in Topsham, delicatessans or website. £9.95 for 3.5kg, £14.95 for 6.5kg.
Feeding Your Imagination, Topsham.
Tel. 0845 602 6862. feeding-your-imagination.co.uk

Figgy Puddings uses the best vine fruits, nuts and cherries as well as award-winning real ale and brandy. £9 for 400g, £12 for 600g.
Figgy Puddings, Exeter.
Tel. 01392 459488. figgys.co.uk

Georgie Porgie’s Puddings’ Christmas offering is subtly spicy and traditional with a twist. Buy online or by mail order. £12 for 840g.
Georgie Porgie’s Puddings, Ottery St Mary.
Tel. 01404 815561. georgieporgiespuddings.co.uk

This feature was first published in the Nov-Dec '07 issue of Devon food magazine.