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Hotel review: Queensberry Hotel, Bath

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A weekend at the Queensberry is like staying with friends who are doing awfully well for themselves: an enviably central location, your bedroom Pinterest board brought to life, a pile of bestsellers above the fireplace and a top chef in the basement. Kathryn Lewis packed her overnight bag

Queensberry Hotel

‘Gentlemen whose trousers fail to reach the ankle may be discouraged from wearing white socks.’

It’s just one of the twelve “Queensberry rules” that we can get on board with at the fabulously idiosyncratic townhouse turned boutique hotel in Bath.

Another is, ‘The sign of a true gentlemen, and a lady, is to know one’s limit,’ although we’re certain that head chef Chris Cleghorn has tested many guests’ over-indulgence threshold through the years.

VISIT for a dose of Bath glamour and charm – minus the pomp. Yes you’ll find classical music softly playing on arrival, a box of personalised chocolates waiting on your dressing table and waistcoated waiters obliging guests with olives in the courtyard, but the Queensberry’s subversive style and tongue-in-cheek humour makes this as fun and relaxing as a stay with old chums.

Its restaurant, The Olive Tree, located in the belly of the 18th century building, is reason enough to visit the city. Schooled by the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Michael Caines, Chris Cleghorn creates menus that are an ode to the seasons and executed with flair and technical aplomb.

DON’T VISIT for a bargain break in Bath. A stay at this decadent dwelling demands stepping up in style: leave the car with the valet, order The Old Q champagne cocktail before dinner, and go all out with the eight course tasting menu.

WE LIKED the newly revamped Old Q Bar. With almost a quarter of a million quid splashed on a refurb over summer, early evening cocktails in the drawing room or stone-walled courtyard should be savoured by both inquisitive locals and overnight residents.

INSIDER’S TIP Plump for the matched wine flight. Restaurant manager Selam Nafekegu’s picks include unusual finds such as Japanese chardonnay, paired skilfully with Chris’ seasonal dishes.

What we ate (seasonal tasting menu)

Cured and torched trout, avocado, cucumber, pink grapefruit

Asparagus, Ibérico ham, parmesan, pickled shallot

Panfried seabass, fennel, olive tapenade, orange

Barbecued lamb cutlet, pea, grelot onion, girolles, ewe’s cheese, mint

Peanut parfait, milk chocolate, salted caramel

Double rooms from £100

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