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Restaurant review: Bustopher Jones, Truro

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‘Bustopher Jones is not skin and bones, in fact he’s remarkably fat’. TS Eliot’s paunchy pussycat would have enjoyed scoffing at his namesake restaurant, says Rosanna Rothery

Bustopher Jones

Every cat-about-town will want to sport their best white spats and head to this swanky yet casual hangout where chef Darren Millgate has created a menu that’s all pizzazz and ripe flavours.

VISIT FOR the cocktails daaarling – as a bountiful selection awaits. We all know that prosecco now runs through the veins of every woman over 21 so we thoroughly approve of the intoxicating “giggle water” menu. Manager Huw Vicary chose for us Lady Elegance (what a charmer); a sublime tangy citrus mix of lemon sorbet, fresh lemon juice, limoncello, gin and prosecco.

DON’T VISIT if you’re a kitty who prefers country-style dining. This one’s for town-loving tomcats.

WE LIKED that with every dish we had to resist the urge to storm into the open plan kitchen and demand the recipe to take home. A sublime starter of smoked halloumi (how did he get it so soft and creamy?) matched to a citrusy blast of kumquat chutney and pickled red cabbage gave a hint of the heady delights to follow. Roast pepper jus lent deep caramel and fruit notes to fennel seed marinated pork, while blood oranges proved to be a feisty companion to pistachio cake.

INSIDER’S TIP Book a taxi. With an immense cellar, inspired drinks list and talented mixologist Ian Vasey on hand, it would be bonkers to stick to the softies.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Chargrilled pheasant breast, roast parsnip, sloe gin, pomegranate vinaigrette
Main Fennel seed marinated pork fillet, parmesan polenta, roasted fennel, roast pepper jus
Dessert Blood orange and pistachio cake, honey and rosemary pannacotta

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